Marty Rosen Plotzes at Ginza's 'Pan-Asian Juxtaposition'

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Robin Garr took the week off, but Marty Rosen has enough superlatives for two in this week's review of the "Pan-Asian juxtaposition" that is Ginza Asian Bistro. Taking a swipe at places like Yang Kee Noodle, Yum! Brands' combo stores and Asiatique, Rosen declares "few 'pan-anything' restaurants really amount to much." From that perspective, Rosen says "Ginza Asian Bistro...is pretty darned impressive." Rosen notes the "pages of offerings that include elaborate sushi rolls; teriyaki, tempura and hibachi grilled entrees; a generous assortment of Chinese-American classics; and a good collection of dishes from the Thai canon," and applauds his servers' "almost encyclopedic understanding of the menu."

Rosen seems amazed by Ginza's encompassing-yet-Americanized menu. "Delicate little shumai...were stuffed with bits of shrimp that popped with flavor ($4.50). Salads...were impeccably fresh (and dressed in the standard sweet-tangy pink sauce one usually finds in American Thai restaurants)." As for sushi, Rosen says "I don't know that I've seen a roll any better crafted than the Lonely Angel ($12.95)…the bright, loose improvisational charm of a quickly executed watercolor." Anything else? "An idiosyncratic take on pad kee mow (drunken noodles)..."[t]he look was unusual, and so were some of the vegetable ingredients that don't often show up in Thai restaurant preparations of this dish (like bamboo shoots and broccoli) — but those novelties hardly detracted from a very nice meal."

Remember, kids—in the Marty Rosen universe, "very nice" equals "pretty darned impressive."
· Ginza Asian Bistro displays a deft touch with three cuisines [Courier-Journal]
·All Week in Reviews [~ELOU~]