Garr Makes Earth Friends, Channels Germans; Rosen Assures 'Happy Ending' at Porcini

Robin Garr returns from his Thanksgiving break with two reviews: Eiderdown and Earth Friends Cafe. Citing "the season for spectacular overeating," Garr suggests "a trip to Earth Friends…where virtuous dining can also be delicious." Garr goggles at the array of "vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and other genres" available at Earth Friends. He seems amazed by the use of seitan, tempeh and a choice "between the real Big Bird [sic, ugh] and Tofurky on any seasonal dish using turkey."

Garr reassures the reader that, despite their Earth-friendliness, Earth Friends' folk "know their way around a kitchen." He continues: "Quality is consistently high, whether meatful or meat-free. Flavors snap, crackle and pop." Checking out the breakfast menu, Garr notes he was "very happy with an aromatic, creamy soy latte" but when it comes to cupcakes "would just as soon have skipped the gluten-free option."

Reviewing Eiderdown, Robin Garr hears "the voices of the old Germans" who speak to him in the oddest German accent ever: "'Ach, ya! Get the duuuck faaat popcooorn.'" Garr dutifully reports Eiderdown says German food "is one of our many inspirations, but not the sole basis of what we do," describing itself as "European-inspired Southern Food." He continues: "Personally, I'd define Eiderdown's fare pretty much as I'd define Germantown itself: American, indebted to Louisville's assimilated German heritage…accented with the 'country' cookery brought by Louisville's other immigrants — the rural Kentuckians and Hoosiers who've made the city their home." After that bit of non-Metro-native stigmatizing, Garr gushes over the popcorn ("gains gravitas from a gourmet-style drizzle of duck fat") as well as Lisa's Lucid Dreaming ("an amazing plant-based entree, beautiful to the eye and palate"). Ach ya yourself, Rooobin!

Marty Rosen goes to Porcini, gets too wrapped up in a Vivaldi analogy and turns the hyperbole volume up to 11: "A meal at Porcini almost certainly won't involve cliffhanging drama — you can be pretty sure of a happy ending. He goes on to describe "a spellbinding series of events that's as absorbing, surprising and delightful as an operatic narrative….[a] seemingly casual virtuosity that a violinist in Vivaldi's time (or ours, for that matter) would call sprezzatura." Other superlative phrases include "light as a veil" (artichoke hearts), "pomp-free grace" (grilled lamb chops and beef filet), and "imaginatively conceived" (mix of local greens). There are also "simple pleasures" (Caesar salad), "masterful" pizzas and for dessert, "a single word of advice: frulatto di zucca e cioccalato."

· All Eater Week in Reviews [~ELOU~]
· Take a Healthy, Tasty Break at Earth Friends Cafe [Voice-Tribune]
· Is Eiderdown German? Is Germantown German? [LEO Weekly]
· Restaurant Review: Porcini [Courier-Journal]