WFPL Reviewer Likes Decca, Prefers Herself

For WFPL, Dana McMahan visited Decca to review herself and found the encounter wonderful. With 62 self-referential pronouns and mentions of a steak tartare she ate in Paris, pasta she consumed in Italy and spices she hoarded in Marrakech and Fez, hopefully WFPL's readers realized just how lucky they are to have her opinions. "I roam the globe in search of dining experiences that make me this happy. With memories of meals from some of the world's top tables, it's no small feat to serve this unashamed food snob a meal that sparks such delight." Oh, wait. Let's find a quote about Decca. "We ordered a ravioli called Love Letter ($14) to share. The surroundings required I behave with civility, but I had to restrain myself from physically claiming the dish as my own after the first bite. Clearly handmade pasta, as ethereally light as anything I've had in Italy, it was dressed in a delicate chevre sauce brightened with a hit of Meyer lemon. The combination rendered me nearly speechless. I could only shake my head and smile ear to ear as I surreptitiously swiped my finger around the bowl for the last flecks of sauce. Love letter, indeed." Love letter to somebody anyway. [WFPL]

For the second straight week, the Louisville Courier-Journal (it's the newspaper your parents subscribe to) omitted the rating from the online version of a Marty Rosen restaurant review—as did its Metromix appearance. So you'll actually have to read Rosen's entire article to know what he thinks about Mussel & Burger Bar (sorry). "And the hefty smear of Tallegio (one of the world's great, smelly washed-rind cheeses) on The Italian Job ($13) suggests that the kitchen is ready to build big gourmet flavors into the sandwiches; it doesn't hurt that The Italian Job also features luscious caramelized onions, crisp slivers of prosciutto, thick slabs of oven-roasted tomatoes and some spicy rocket lettuce, and is accompanied by a superb batch of pommes frites. While you're at it, order a side of elotes callejeros (Mexican-style corn on the cob), dusted with Parmesan and chili powder ($4)....But the star of the burger menu is arguably the Seafood Burger ($13), a thick patty formed of crabmeat, shrimp and lobster flavored with onions and chives and dressed with avocado, tomato and crabmeat aioli — and pommes frites. It's Lent, but anyone who thinks of this sandwich as a 'sacrifice' is in for a revelation." [Louisville Courier-Journal]

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[Photo: Courtesy Facebook/Decca]