C-J's Rosen Gives Sidebar Three Stars

Louisville Courier-Journal restaurant reviewer Marty Rosen gave Sidebar 3 stars out of 4 ("very good"):

The Sidebar burger is made from a mix of chuck, brisket and short rib. It's clear that attention is paid to how the meat is ground and handled. When cooked, the beef is juicy, rich and beefy, and has a delightfully light — almost airy — texture. This burger justifies its price tag. A classic cheeseburger, topped with lettuce, tomato and red onion, runs $10. But the more elaborate offerings are worth exploring. The Court Reporter ($12) benefits from fresh avocado, a sweet-smoky honey-chipotle aioli and a perky relish made from roasted red peppers. The Philadelphia Attorney ($15) is an extravagant indulgence embellished with bourbon mushrooms and onions, blue cheese — and braised short rib. [Louisville Courier-Journal]

For LEO Weekly, Robin Garr reviewed Equus: "A local destination restaurant that opened just a few years ago. Well, OK, OK, it opened in 1985, but who's counting? Not me, that's for sure. In some ways, after all, Equus never seems to change very much." An accurate assessment, no doubt, but one that begs the question, why review it again?

Nine or 10 main dishes, many of them built on locally produced beef, pork or poultry and, in season, farmers-market produce, start at $16 (for first-rate fried chicken) to $32 (for Creekstone Farm beef filet); sea bass is market price. We put together a bunch of small bites and one of Rockwell's mains, starting with bowls of the fumé, which gains its rich texture from a combination of mushrooms, heavy cream, arrowroot and veal stock, which may come as a surprise to vegetarians who order it expecting an animal-free fungus treat. Crunchy, munchie "tater tots" ($8) are nothing like the industrial food Mom used to pull out of a box and fry; they are sizable balls of creamy, textured mashed potatoes contained in a golden-brown crust and served with an earthy truffle aioli. A baby "wedge" salad ($8) was two small, fresh and crisp iceberg wedges with a vinegary, chunky blue cheese dressing and bacon bits. [LEO Weekly]

Sticking with the motif of reviewing restaurants that are older than Yoda, Garr visited Captain's Quarters for the Voice-Tribune:

Ahh, Captain's Quarters! From its striking ski-lodge-style wood and glass building to the decks that ramble over its scenic riverfront slope just up the Ohio at Harrods Creek, within skyline's view of downtown Louisville, what's not to like?...More than half the main dishes feature seafood, with steak, chicken and pasta dishes comprising the rest. Mains range from $9 (for a buffalo chicken quesadilla) to $29 (for an 8-ounce filet mignon with fries). CQ's adult-beverages program offers a well-chosen, broad selection of beer, wine and cocktails. Good stuff! But then the buffet beckons. The lavish spread is $18.95 for adults, $9.95 for those under 12, and it's well-curated, pans kept sizzling, fresh and well-stocked. We took a look at the menus, then headed straight for the buffet. [Voice-Tribune]

·All Week in Reviews [~ELOU~]
·LEO Weekly Editors Scrapped Restaurant Critic Robin Garr's Rating System [~ELOU~]

[Photo: Jessica Fey]