Robin Garr says that even though La Coop: Bistro à Vins has abandoned its all-French language menu, the restaurant is "still just as French as French can be." He then goes on to describe his delight in such "French" dishes as fried green tomatoes and tempura battered squash, and his disappointment with his cassoulet.
Though it was built "according to the Southwestern French standard," Garr found a few problems with his "stew of pork and duck and white beans."
[A] hunk of duck-leg confit was fine, dark and luscious. But I'll give [the cassoulet] only a B-minus overall, as only a tiny bit of pork belly could be found in a rather thin soup with less-than-tender beans. It gave the impression of having been constructed quickly rather than simmered for hours.Garr does enjoy his "generous appetizer portion" of fried green tomatoes "cloaked in peppery cornmeal batter, fried golden-brown and served in a tiny wire fryer basket with creamy remoulade" (which is a French word). While the Vegetable Pot Pie "was a good concept but flavor-light," Garr found his most American of French standards, Steak Frites "fine." He also advises readers to be on the lookout for non-cassoulet but surely Gallic specials such as "Wednesday's chicken and waffles, Thursday's burgers, Friday's fish and Saturday's New Orleans barbecued shrimp."
· You Don't Have To Speak French To Love La Coop [Voice-Tribune]
· La Coop: Bistro à Vins [Official Site]
· All Eater Week in Reviews [~ELOU~]