Robin Garr, who likes his wine, also likes the look of Louvino, saying the new restaurant created in the old De La Torres space
looks ... different. And very cool. There's wood all around, and glass and some brass, too, and a bar so long it goes back to there, backed by an awe-inspiring wall of wines housed in high-tech argon gas dispensers that keep the vino fresh.Then he becomes annoyed, because Louvino is (as Garr describes it) "frappin'" loud. Ever hip to the city's trends, Garr writes he understands "that noise is in," but blames Louvino's "hard edges and a happy crowd" for raising this trendy "noise" stuff to a level "even beyond its Bardstown Road and NuLu neighbors." Want proof? Robin Garr owns technology, including an "iThing"!
I whipped out my iThing's "dBMeter" app and took a quick reading: 92, peaking to 98. Whoa! In other words, LouVino's ahm-bee-ahnce roars at the approximate level of a subway train, or a motorcycle revving up nearby.Garr's phonophobic party of four is partially satisfied by a "relatively isolated table near the front, slightly removed from the throng." After detailing this drama and distaste for the decibels of his fellow diners, Garr finally notes that he, his wife Mary and "friends Steve and Mary Jane enjoyed everything we ordered."
After giving a short bio of owners Chad and Lauren Coulter ("pharmacists by profession who also own two metro Uptown Art shops") and saying Executive Chef Tavis Rockwell and "certified wine geek" Danielle Greeson have "built up a full head of steam on both the food and wine sides," Garr finally outlines Louvino's "small plates and big wines."
A warm pretzel … was puffy and tender, with a dark-brown crust like a Philly-style soft pretzel, dusted with coarse salt. It comes with your pick of tangy beer cheese or sweet port cheese. A warm brussels sprouts salad was an earthy blend of smoky, halved sprouts … stirred with chili corn salsa and tossed with cilantro lime vinaigrette, topped with a bouquet of fresh watercress.Garr likes his "five fat grilled oysters," and a "Market mix" that turned out to be a vegetarian Napoleon "flavorfully decorated with a garlicky green aioli." Garr also has thoughts on irony:
The "chef's snack of the day" this day consisted of an ironic take on macaroni and cheese with spicy Mexican chorizo. …Another ironic "fusion" united a bite-size ration of Kentucky style (but not the Colonel's) tender, crisply fried chicken, garlicky mashed potatoes, Cheddar, pepper gravy in a Mexican-style taco. A mixed marriage to be sure, but it worked.After semi-praising "mixed marriage," Garr notes his "share of dinner for two, including two wine 'flights,' rang up a pleasantly affordable $49.15, plus a $10 tip." Hopefully his party paid by card—because coins and snapping bills would only make more noise.
· LouVino? LOUVINO? What? I can't heeeaaarrr you! [LEO Weekly]
· Louvino [Official Site]
· All Eater Week in Reviews [-ELOU-]