Another week, another lunch, another one-lunch-and-done review from Robin Garr. This Voice-Tribune paycheck comes compliments of E. Coli bacteria, the USDA and, briefly, Grind Burger Kitchen. After opening with some thoughts on how "quality makes a difference" as people choose between "leather seats or plastic" and "Mephisto loafers, or sneakers from Payless." Then he declares this idea "too complicated," and proceeds to a discussion of E. Coli.
It may not happen often, but cheap ground beef has a record: it can kill you. … "If pathogens are present when meat is ground," warns the United States Department of Agriculture's Food Safety and Inspection Service, "then more of the meat surface is exposed to the harmful bacteria. Also, grinding allows any bacteria present on the surface to be mixed throughout the meat." All together now: "Eeeuuuwww!"
After frightening himself with his government-sourced words, Garr informs readers that there exists in our area ground beef "from locally produced, grass-fed critters, grown by folks you can meet face-to-face at the farmers' market." After a mention of Bluegrass Burgers, Garr goes on to "the subject of today's dissertation," Grind Burger Kitchen.
After Garr goes to Grind's FAQ to find quotes from Liz and/or Jesse Huot ("Our primary supplier is Foxhollow Farm…" "It's our policy not to sell you beef of unknown origins") Garr actually gets down to describing his lunch:
The little yellow storefront in a rather gritty strip along Preston near Audubon Park might not look much like a fancy burger emporium, but the fare is first-rate. The 1/3-pound Grind burger ($9) showed its breeding in a fine texture that kept the meat tender and juicy like a steak [with] rich cheddar melted succulently into every bite. … The fluffy white bun was okay but not as exciting as the burger. … The house-made veggie burger was outstanding … full of delicious beans and grains – chickpeas, lentils and quinoa – mashed into a coarse paste that yields a "burger" with complex flavor and a texture that's, well, a lot like ground beef. A schmear of pimento cheese made it even better.
· Quality counts at Grind Burger Kitchen [Voice-Tribune]
· Grind Burger Kitchen [Official Site]
· All Eater Week in Reviews [-ELOU-]